Nicaragua. My favourite country so far

I arrived in Managua, the capital city and spent two days feeling a little scared. Not as a result of any problems I experienced, just the constant warnings not to stray two streets from the hotel, not to go out at nighttime, take taxis but also be careful with the taxis!? I imagine nothing too different from any other Central American capital, but enough to make me a little cautious of traveling alone.
In 1972 Managua city centre suffered an earthquake which left the area destroyed. As the fault underlying the city is still active the government decided not to re-build in case of more movement on the fault. Taking the expensive but ´safe` taxis from the airport I passed through the city centre which still had a desolate and abandoned feel. Very few of the buildings had been repaired and the only people living in the area are those squatting the buildings or the poor who have set up their homes. Since Managua has no real city centre it is a little difficult for visitors and tourists as most of the hotels, bars and places of interest are dispersed around the city.
On my first afternoon I visited Lago Tipasca, an extinct volcano with the crater now filled with water. There were great views of the city, Lake Managua and also the 30m high statue of the profile of Agosto Sandino, a national hero who fought against American Imperialism. Sandino was assassinated in 1934 by Anastosia Somoza whose family would rule as dictators until the Civil War led to triumph and revolution in 1979.
From Managua I headed to Granada, a city which by name and architecture would fit as a typical Spanish city. The colonial style buildings of the centre are colorfully painted and well kept. Perhaps even more beautiful are the abandoned churches and houses away from the city centre. Towards the outskirts the housing changes dramatically to one storey, two or three room, metal roofed houses where the locals live. Four blocks away from the city centre is the market, the hub of activity in the city. The old market building houses vendors of similar products in their own section with food at the rear. It was hard not to enjoy the lively atmosphere in the labyrinth like market and also smile at the approaches made by the vendors ‘¿hoy que se lleva`?(what will you be taking today?), ¿que quieres mi amor/cariño? (what do you want my love/darling?).
Whilst in Granada I visited Las Isletas, 350 islands on the lakeside of Lago Nicaragua. The islands vary in size, but none bigger than half a football pitch which where formed when the nearby Volcan Mombacho exploded, leaving volcanic debris on the lakeside. I went for a boat ride and swam amongst the islands, all of which are privately owned by North Americans or Nicaraguans. I also visited Volcan Mombacho and had my first experience of a cloud forest. The upper third of the volcano is almost permanently covered in thick clouds producing a unique cloud forest climate which is frequently cold, humid and windy. The dense forest was packed with flora and fauna including many species of orchids, varying in beautiful colours.
From Granada I headed to Isla Ometepe, a volcanic island in Lago Nicaragua. The island is comprised of Volcan Concepcion (1610m) and Volcan Maderas (1320m) and is reached by ferry or boat from San Jorge. Both volcanoes rise dramatically from the lake and between the months of June to March the upper parts are covered in clouds. Concepcion is perfectly cone shaped with no vegetation in the upper parts, only scree and ash. Maderas in contrast is covered in dense cloud forest with a crater lake. On one of the days of my stay I climbed Maderas starting in the banana plantations, passing petrographs (stone carvings left by the indigenous people who once lived on the island). including representations of the volcanoes and the sun. The majority of the walk was a steep hard slog through the dense vegetation, often slipping or falling rocks and roots. Our guide, a local strolled up in wellies without breaking a sweat.
Isla Ompete could be considered a little paradise of warm lakes, beaches, waterfalls and tranquility. Apart from tourism most of the locals live from the banana and plantain plantations, along with their small patches of land on which they harvest maize and frijoles (red beans). Walking the dirt roads of the island it wasn’t uncommon to see pigs and chickens roaming freely, men on horseback following their cattle and kids playing with sticks and rocks. As for many of the locals their houses were very modest and it was not uncommon for a family of ten, of three or four generations to live under the same roof. I could have easily stayed on the island for a few days but was anxious to meet a friend in Masaya and get a little closer to Honduras.
On the way to Masay I spent one day at Laguna de Apoyo, another one of Nicaragua’s natural delights, an extinct volcano with a warm crater lake. I swam, kayaked and thought on numerous occasions how lucky I was to be there and what a shame I couldn’t share the experience with any of my friends.
I spent five days at a friend’s family house in Masaya. Marlon´s family treated me exceptionally well and I was happy to be living and sharing with Nicaraguans which was a great change from the youth hostels. During my time here I visited Volcan Masay, one of the most active in Nicaragua. Played a football match (I wasn’t too shabby but couldn’t really walk for a few days after), visited Nicinomo the birth town of Sandino and did some unexciting but essential things such a washing and buying new clothes.
Afterwards I headed to the centre-west of the country up in the cool mountains, home to cowboys, rice, coffee and tobacco plantations. I spent my time in the cities of Matagalpa and Esteli. For me the highlight was the Museum of Heroes and Martyrs in Esteli which is maintained by mothers who lost their children during the Civil War. I talked to Guillerma Montenegro a mother who had lost both her children fighting for the Sandinistas. One of the boys, aged 16 was killed a week before the end of the Civil War. He had left home telling his mum that he couldn’t stay at home when there were foreigners fighting and dying for his country. His photo, amongst many other Sandinistas is on the wall of the museum. Over 5000 Sandinistas were killed in Esteli alone. Many were taken by the Somoza dictatorship in the middle of the night and never to return and became known as one of the desaparecidos. Shamefully the museum is not given any financial support by the government and is kept open through donations from visitors. Undoubtedly such a museum should be supported by public money as it represents such a difficult, violent and turbulent time in the history of the country.
The leader of the then Sandinista Guerrillas, Daniel Ortega, is now the President of Nicaragua. His party is under criticism for corruption, rigged elections and a lack of support for the economy owing to worldwide economic problems. However, they are far more caring of the pueblo than the previous government (Nicaragua has a bi-party system of essentially socialist and conservatives) and have increased pensions from 200 cordobas (10 US dollars) to 500 cordobas (25 US) a month. He has also increased ties with Venezuela who have given loans to Nicaragua and Cuba who have sent doctors to give free eye treatment to the public. Like most of the Central American countries the future promises interesting yet unstable times.
I spent three fun days in Leon the cultural capital of Nicaragua climbing beautiful volcanoes, dancing salsa with beautiful girls and reading beautiful poetry by Ruben Dario.

I left Nicaragua with many wonderful memories
· Old U.S.A school buses colorfully painted and decorated, jammed with three to a seat, no standing room, doors wide open and conductors climbing onto the roof whilst the bus was moving. Every village venders would surround the bus, bordering for a couple of miles in attempts to sell their products
· Chaotic markets selling iguana and turtle eggs
· Typical breakfast of rice, frijoles, cheese, eggs, tortilla and coffee.
· The most talented cyclists in the world exhibiting various styles of two to a bike.


I also left feeling that maybe my life was after all controlled by destiny and that I was been looked after by my mum, mother earth and even God.

I visited Esteli for one afternoon and walking into the city centre I decided to take a different route to that which I was given instructions. Crossing the road I saw a pick up truck with a Welsh sticker. Of course I went and talked to the driver who turns out is from South Wales and has lived in Central America for thirty years. We talked and we discovered that he had met my mum in Honduras on a couple of occasions thirty years ago. What are the chances?

Wow, I haven’t written this much since I handed in one of my terrible essays in high school, and its only a fraction of what I’ve been up to! Ha ha

Anyway I am writing from Honduras where I have been for three weeks. I have yet to find my dad but have had a quite amazing, emotional time meeting friends of my mums.

I hope you are all happy, healthy and enjoying yourselves

Lots of love

Alexis