A quick search of the BBC website and the internet and little news can be found regarding the current situation in Honduras. The continued refugee status of the legitimate President Mel Zelaya, who is received with official honors by dignitaries throughout Latin America, lacks the excitement of his previous attempts to enter the country. But within Honduras , things are not so quiet. As I write only 3km away the police and military forces of the oppressive de facto government are brutally beating demonstrators supporting the return of constitutional order in Honduras .
The 46th Day of Resistance started with the congregation of demonstrators in the University Pedagogica. Today there were far more people than during the past two weeks as yesterday had seen the arrival of people in the capital from all around the country. Seven days ago, in what has been called the Nationwide March people left their homes and began to walk from all around the country to the cities of Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula to support the Resistance.
As always the demonstrators, a mixture of trade unionists, mothers, children, native Indians, teachers, and office professionals walked peacefully to the city centre. However, as news arrived that the de facto congress wished to pass a law re-stating compulsory military service the demonstrators headed to the National Congress to protest. Whilst arriving at the National Congress the demonstrators spotted the Vice-President of the de facto government who had badly timed his departure from the Congress. Unfortunately, one of the demonstrators, who after 45 days of repression, manipulation and human rights abuses took his anger out on the Vice-President by kicking him in the bum. This cued the police reprisal of 500 Cobra, the elite anti-riot force, carrying metal batons, tear gas, and guns, and of course wearing the regulation protective wear. Chaos quickly descended upon the city centre and the police began to fire tear gas and beat the demonstrators. As usual, no effort was made by the repressive forces to discuss or remove the demonstrators pacifically.
At the moment it is difficult to confirm the incidents that have occurred primarily as there is only one radio station and television station that covers the news. The remaining channels, all owned by the businessmen who funded and supported the coup are busy concentrating on the Honduras-Costa Rica football match or carefully manipulating the information that they emit.
Latest information:
* Over 60 people detained and being held without charges
* People who have the appearance of “demonstrators” are being detained without reason
* Numerous people in hospital with severe beatings, two people are unrecognizable due to the severity of the disfiguration of their face
* Human rights workers are being refused access to police stations and other locations where people are being held
* The University Pedagogica has been militarized
* There are various people who have disappeared and their location is unknown
A report published on August 7th, “International Mission of Observation for the Human Rights Situation in Honduras: De Facto Government Violates Human Rights in Honduras, Final Report” states that over 2000 cases of human rights abuses have been committed by the de facto government.
As the repression continues and the de facto government continues to demonstrate little will or inclination to give up their grip on power. 46 days and politically very little has changed since the initial days of the military coup. Where does this leave the immediate future for Honduras? Undoubtedly a tumultuous few weeks in which the Resistance needs to strengthen, better organise and find a method to engage the rest of the Honduran population and those in the rest of the world willing to listen.
I hope you are well. Thanks for listening.
Love Alexis
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Saturday, July 25, 2009
26 days after the military coup
26 days after the military coup
With much difficulty I try to write about the situation in which Honduras finds itself. Impartiality is a very difficult task when the country is polarized to the extent that depending upon where one stands or protests, you´re voice is heard or non-existent. I wanted to share my experiences of living under an oppressive de facto government so that people outside of Honduras can compare this information with that which they receive through the mass media or internet. Secondly, I wanted to give my views of the current political situation and what the future may promise for Honduras. By all means don´t take my word for granted, because after all I am inherently biased, but use this information as another tool for forming your own opinion.
My experiences: Day 5 to Day 26 after the military coup
In the immediate days after the coup the country slowly awoke to the reality of a non-elected government. Against the tide of the propaganda from radio and TV channels, which had long forgotten the ideals of journalism, news filtered around the country via e-mail or text. The only TV channels passing news not in support of the coup were removed from transmission, continually blocked or threatened by the military forces. The buildings of the national phone company were militarized in order for phone calls to be tapped. By the weekend of 4th and 5th July over 300, 000 people had descended upon Tegucigalpa. Trade unions, teachers, native Indians, office workers, garifunas from the Caribbean coast and campesinos marched shoulder by shoulder throughout the city. On Sunday 5th July I was fortunate enough to be involved in what may have been the largest demonstration in Honduras´s recent history. We left from the Universidad Pedagogica chanting in unison “the people united, will never be defeated” “Mel our friend the people are with you” “onward, onward, the fight is constant”. The atmosphere was carnival like with samba bands, music from the speakers of the trucks and a sense of unity which transcended economic well-being, race or political views. We marched along the city ring road, occupying all six lanes and then onto airport, anxiously awaiting the return of the elected President Mel Zelaya. Arriving at the airport, we took turns to stop at the entrance and listen to speeches from church leaders, trade unionist and almost anyone who was willing to grab the microphone. The Honduran national anthem was sung under an enormous military and police presence and then we moved onto the parking area opposite the end of the runway.
Waiting, some patiently, all anxiously we huddled around portable radios, sent and received texts with the latest updates upon Zelaya´s arrival: “he´s in Honduran airspace” “Zelaya´s being interviewed live on the plane” “Kirchner, Correa and Insulza are waiting in El Salvador”. And then over the skies we spotted the Venezuelan jet soar over the green, shanty town slopes of Tegucigalpa. Back it came, roaring low over the crowd, almost close enough to physically touch and close enough to feel the presence of Zelaya. By now, a group of people had cut into the security fence of the airport and stood teasingly close to the runway but closer to the heavily armed military and police. Under the orders of the de facto leader Roberto Micheletti Bain the runway was blocked with tanks so not to permit the landing of Zelaya´s plane and for the final time the jet circled over the crowd and headed back to El Salvador, temporarily defeated.
The calm was broken by the fire of guns and arrival of tear gas. I was sat down on the grass, next to a family with children, chatting with a friend only suddenly to be trampled by hundreds of people escaping the bullets and gas. The braver, madder or angrier demonstrators responded by throwing rocks. The army, paid by the people to protect the people, had fired upon their own.
I was fortunate enough to escape the bullets and the little gas I received in my eyes was to affect me for half an hour. Isis Obed Murillo was not so fortunate. He received a bullet in the head only metres from where I was and died almost instantly. Officially, no one died during those brief moments on Sunday afternoon as the de facto government has as yet to confirm that Isis was shot by the army, preferring to invent stories such as rubber bullets or Isis´s murdered by other demonstrators. However, in the international and alternative methods of communication, and amongst the streets everybody knows that not only was Isis killed, but so were two others.
We remained at the airport defiant that the military force would not crush our spirits and unwilling to submit to the repression of military coup. However finally, the thousands who had marched for hours and kilometers with such expectancy began to walk back. At 5.30pm news flooded through the streets that a curfew had been set for 6pm had been decreed by the coup leaders. Without any possibility of reaching home on time we grouped together and walked through the darkness in nervous expectation of an encounter with the police and if unlucky an uncomfortable night in jail, or at worst an experience we did not wish to even imagine.
For the first week following the coup, no-one in the office had been able to work. Many of our partner organizations had come to Tegucigalpa to protest or were busy organizing the resistance or writing up breaches of humans rights. The views, opinions and misconceptions within the office of the political events surrounding the coup were a microcosm of the nation. The majority of the office condemned the military coup, some supported Mel whole heartedly and others who had not previously support Mel appreciated his efforts to shake up the economic and political powers. On the other side people didn´t want Mel to return under any circumstances and viewed his removal from power as legal or at least justified.
The week following the death of Isis we persisted under a curfew, still unable to view all the TV channels and under the suspicious eyes of the military in most street corners. As we continued to hear the Organization of American States, the United Nations, the European Union, the Alba and civil society organizations denounce the military coup, within Honduras we were bombarded by propaganda justifying “constitutional succession” of the President. Although I was at work I would skip off for long lunches to take part in the marches. By mid week many of the people who had descended upon Tegucigalpa had returned home as they had no money. The commitment of the campesinos, from around the country was humbling and inspiring. To leave home with all their savings in their pocket, the only pair of shoes on their feet and no idea of were they would stay (the street was out of the question due to the curfew) was an act of bravery and solidarity I will never forget. They were the people with the least security taking the biggest risks.
The second weekend of the Resistance was marked by two cultural events. On Saturday, concerts, performances and words at the airport in memory of Isis Obed. The highlights included a ceremony by the Garifunas with singing in their own language, Café Guancaso (our friends´ band) and me being invited, as a foreigner, upon stage to dance La Punta, the traditional Caribbean dance involving a lot of bum and hip shaking from the North coast. For a chele (white person) I defended myself on stage in front of 1000 people. On Sunday there were more concerts, performances in the central park.
By Monday the Resistance was tired. Two weeks of marching and protesting with very little to celebrate except the initiation of doomed talks in San José. During the week I tried to concentrate upon my paid work and didn´t march all week. My activities were restricted to meeting with friends to coordinate activities and support ongoing activities such as the toma in the Universidad Pedagogica, where students of the group University Action had locked themselves in the university grounds forcing the suspension of classes for two days. On the weekend I rested for the first time.
This past week, the fourth week, has seen a resurgence of the Resistance. The teachers attended classes from Monday to Wednesday, but only to discuss and explain why they would strike on Thursday and Friday. By Wednesday, with the talks in San José deemed a failure by all sides and another attempt at a return by Mel imminent the country was once again returning to a standstill. I helped put posters up in the National University and supported the cultural event in the University held on Wednesday. Thursday saw a national strike with roadblocks and marches all around the country.
Today, Friday evening I sit and write trying to recollect where the month since the coup has gone. Today we were dispatched from work at midday as hundreds of people were attempting to move to the Nicaraguan border to support a return of Mel to the country. I spent the afternoon and early evening protesting in the street happy to be involved in the Resistance and committed to working for social justice in Honduras.
I had intended to write a second part, regarding the political situation which I will do so over the weekend. Trying to take a step back from everything that has happened and reflect has taken a little longer than I thought.
I hope that you are all well. Reading some of your e-mails (thank you all – I´m sorry that I have not had time to reply individually) I get the impression that many of you are better informed than many Honduras. This Sunday will mark a month of the coup and Micheletti (or Goriletti as he is now known) along with his partners in crime seen as ever unwilling to give up power. Please do not forget about Honduras and all the breaches of human rights that we are experiencing: freedom of movement, illegal curfews, illegal detentions, restriction of the freedom to think and opinionate, and use of brutal military and police force against unharmed civilians.
Write to you MP´s, sign websites in support of the Resistance to the military coup and think about the larger picture of the struggle to better distribute the economic and political wealth of Honduras for a more just country and a voice for the unheard.
Thanks for reading. Lots of love
Alexis
With much difficulty I try to write about the situation in which Honduras finds itself. Impartiality is a very difficult task when the country is polarized to the extent that depending upon where one stands or protests, you´re voice is heard or non-existent. I wanted to share my experiences of living under an oppressive de facto government so that people outside of Honduras can compare this information with that which they receive through the mass media or internet. Secondly, I wanted to give my views of the current political situation and what the future may promise for Honduras. By all means don´t take my word for granted, because after all I am inherently biased, but use this information as another tool for forming your own opinion.
My experiences: Day 5 to Day 26 after the military coup
In the immediate days after the coup the country slowly awoke to the reality of a non-elected government. Against the tide of the propaganda from radio and TV channels, which had long forgotten the ideals of journalism, news filtered around the country via e-mail or text. The only TV channels passing news not in support of the coup were removed from transmission, continually blocked or threatened by the military forces. The buildings of the national phone company were militarized in order for phone calls to be tapped. By the weekend of 4th and 5th July over 300, 000 people had descended upon Tegucigalpa. Trade unions, teachers, native Indians, office workers, garifunas from the Caribbean coast and campesinos marched shoulder by shoulder throughout the city. On Sunday 5th July I was fortunate enough to be involved in what may have been the largest demonstration in Honduras´s recent history. We left from the Universidad Pedagogica chanting in unison “the people united, will never be defeated” “Mel our friend the people are with you” “onward, onward, the fight is constant”. The atmosphere was carnival like with samba bands, music from the speakers of the trucks and a sense of unity which transcended economic well-being, race or political views. We marched along the city ring road, occupying all six lanes and then onto airport, anxiously awaiting the return of the elected President Mel Zelaya. Arriving at the airport, we took turns to stop at the entrance and listen to speeches from church leaders, trade unionist and almost anyone who was willing to grab the microphone. The Honduran national anthem was sung under an enormous military and police presence and then we moved onto the parking area opposite the end of the runway.
Waiting, some patiently, all anxiously we huddled around portable radios, sent and received texts with the latest updates upon Zelaya´s arrival: “he´s in Honduran airspace” “Zelaya´s being interviewed live on the plane” “Kirchner, Correa and Insulza are waiting in El Salvador”. And then over the skies we spotted the Venezuelan jet soar over the green, shanty town slopes of Tegucigalpa. Back it came, roaring low over the crowd, almost close enough to physically touch and close enough to feel the presence of Zelaya. By now, a group of people had cut into the security fence of the airport and stood teasingly close to the runway but closer to the heavily armed military and police. Under the orders of the de facto leader Roberto Micheletti Bain the runway was blocked with tanks so not to permit the landing of Zelaya´s plane and for the final time the jet circled over the crowd and headed back to El Salvador, temporarily defeated.
The calm was broken by the fire of guns and arrival of tear gas. I was sat down on the grass, next to a family with children, chatting with a friend only suddenly to be trampled by hundreds of people escaping the bullets and gas. The braver, madder or angrier demonstrators responded by throwing rocks. The army, paid by the people to protect the people, had fired upon their own.
I was fortunate enough to escape the bullets and the little gas I received in my eyes was to affect me for half an hour. Isis Obed Murillo was not so fortunate. He received a bullet in the head only metres from where I was and died almost instantly. Officially, no one died during those brief moments on Sunday afternoon as the de facto government has as yet to confirm that Isis was shot by the army, preferring to invent stories such as rubber bullets or Isis´s murdered by other demonstrators. However, in the international and alternative methods of communication, and amongst the streets everybody knows that not only was Isis killed, but so were two others.
We remained at the airport defiant that the military force would not crush our spirits and unwilling to submit to the repression of military coup. However finally, the thousands who had marched for hours and kilometers with such expectancy began to walk back. At 5.30pm news flooded through the streets that a curfew had been set for 6pm had been decreed by the coup leaders. Without any possibility of reaching home on time we grouped together and walked through the darkness in nervous expectation of an encounter with the police and if unlucky an uncomfortable night in jail, or at worst an experience we did not wish to even imagine.
For the first week following the coup, no-one in the office had been able to work. Many of our partner organizations had come to Tegucigalpa to protest or were busy organizing the resistance or writing up breaches of humans rights. The views, opinions and misconceptions within the office of the political events surrounding the coup were a microcosm of the nation. The majority of the office condemned the military coup, some supported Mel whole heartedly and others who had not previously support Mel appreciated his efforts to shake up the economic and political powers. On the other side people didn´t want Mel to return under any circumstances and viewed his removal from power as legal or at least justified.
The week following the death of Isis we persisted under a curfew, still unable to view all the TV channels and under the suspicious eyes of the military in most street corners. As we continued to hear the Organization of American States, the United Nations, the European Union, the Alba and civil society organizations denounce the military coup, within Honduras we were bombarded by propaganda justifying “constitutional succession” of the President. Although I was at work I would skip off for long lunches to take part in the marches. By mid week many of the people who had descended upon Tegucigalpa had returned home as they had no money. The commitment of the campesinos, from around the country was humbling and inspiring. To leave home with all their savings in their pocket, the only pair of shoes on their feet and no idea of were they would stay (the street was out of the question due to the curfew) was an act of bravery and solidarity I will never forget. They were the people with the least security taking the biggest risks.
The second weekend of the Resistance was marked by two cultural events. On Saturday, concerts, performances and words at the airport in memory of Isis Obed. The highlights included a ceremony by the Garifunas with singing in their own language, Café Guancaso (our friends´ band) and me being invited, as a foreigner, upon stage to dance La Punta, the traditional Caribbean dance involving a lot of bum and hip shaking from the North coast. For a chele (white person) I defended myself on stage in front of 1000 people. On Sunday there were more concerts, performances in the central park.
By Monday the Resistance was tired. Two weeks of marching and protesting with very little to celebrate except the initiation of doomed talks in San José. During the week I tried to concentrate upon my paid work and didn´t march all week. My activities were restricted to meeting with friends to coordinate activities and support ongoing activities such as the toma in the Universidad Pedagogica, where students of the group University Action had locked themselves in the university grounds forcing the suspension of classes for two days. On the weekend I rested for the first time.
This past week, the fourth week, has seen a resurgence of the Resistance. The teachers attended classes from Monday to Wednesday, but only to discuss and explain why they would strike on Thursday and Friday. By Wednesday, with the talks in San José deemed a failure by all sides and another attempt at a return by Mel imminent the country was once again returning to a standstill. I helped put posters up in the National University and supported the cultural event in the University held on Wednesday. Thursday saw a national strike with roadblocks and marches all around the country.
Today, Friday evening I sit and write trying to recollect where the month since the coup has gone. Today we were dispatched from work at midday as hundreds of people were attempting to move to the Nicaraguan border to support a return of Mel to the country. I spent the afternoon and early evening protesting in the street happy to be involved in the Resistance and committed to working for social justice in Honduras.
I had intended to write a second part, regarding the political situation which I will do so over the weekend. Trying to take a step back from everything that has happened and reflect has taken a little longer than I thought.
I hope that you are all well. Reading some of your e-mails (thank you all – I´m sorry that I have not had time to reply individually) I get the impression that many of you are better informed than many Honduras. This Sunday will mark a month of the coup and Micheletti (or Goriletti as he is now known) along with his partners in crime seen as ever unwilling to give up power. Please do not forget about Honduras and all the breaches of human rights that we are experiencing: freedom of movement, illegal curfews, illegal detentions, restriction of the freedom to think and opinionate, and use of brutal military and police force against unharmed civilians.
Write to you MP´s, sign websites in support of the Resistance to the military coup and think about the larger picture of the struggle to better distribute the economic and political wealth of Honduras for a more just country and a voice for the unheard.
Thanks for reading. Lots of love
Alexis
Day 5 after the Coup - e-mail dated 3rd July
Dear Friends,
A warm greeting from Honduras where we are living some difficult and uncertain times. Maybe some of you are aware of recent events and some of the reasons that have provoked them.
Without doubt the country is polarized and almost all of the politicians are guilty of corruption and abuse of power. However, the manner in which President Mel Zelaya was forcefully removed from his home and Presidency, and the subsequent abuse of power by the de facto government is not justifiable under any circumstances.
The reasons, protagonists and objectives of the recent days are complex. In Honduras 65% of the population lives in poverty, 47% live in extreme poverty. The poorest 20% of the country only earn 3% of the total income. However there is a wealth of natural resources including the Caribbean Sea, Pacific Ocean, metals and minerals, fertile, tropical land and hard working people.
However, the root of the problem is the lack of distribution of political and economic power, which is concentrated in the hands of a few families, business owners and congressmen. Some of the recent initiatives that made Zelaya popular with the poor was the doubling of the minimum wage to cover the cost of the bread basket, school snacks for children, break-up and of the petrol monopoly and subsequent reduced prices, financial benefits to the poorest people and free primary and secondary school matriculation. It is important to mention that Zelaya also had not completed many important tasks such as confirming the 2009 Budget, being able to the re-construct 16 following tropical storm and June´s earthquakes, and ineffectively and possibly corruptly using the budget for the Eradication of Poverty Program.
Mel Zelaya had proposed reforms which could have lead to greater participation and representation of the people in congress as well as other possible changes to the constitution which would include the use of natural resources for the benefit of the country and nationalisation of industries. The powerful oligarchy responded by using congress to ensure the illegality of the process, eventually culminating with a military coup which was a result of the Zelaya at the last minute making Sunday 28 June ballot legally binding. Zelaya was ousted with the use of the armed forces and simultaneously a card appeared signed by him resigning from his post (the authenticity of this card has yet to be proved). The military coup is the first time this has happened in Honduras since 1982.
I would like to explain how we have been living here for the past few days. Two nights ago (Wednesday 1 July) the de facto government approved a decree which calls for a curfew between 9pm and 6am in the capital. In other parts of the country this is between 6pm and 6am. During these hours the following rights have been suspended:
Right to free circulation, freedom to associate as groups or to manifest, sanctity of residence, right to private property, freedom of the press, and sharing of ideas and opinions, personal liberty which includes the rights to be detained in police quarters for more than 24 hours without charges, among others
This decree is a violation of human rights as the only person who is able to pass this decree is the President who has not been recognised by the United Nations, Organisation of American States, ALBA among others.
Below is a summary of some the actions undertaken by de facto government:
Wednesday 1 July
80 people detained. Social leaders are being threatened, detained and forced to hide. Young men from rural zones in Olancho and Colon are being forced to support the army and are being taken to the capital to support the illegal government.
Thursday 2 July
175 people detained. 300 people from the village of Bonito Oriental, Colon were stopped by the police and armed forces whilst beginning their journey to support the arrival of Manuel Zelaya. They were beaten heavily by the police.
During a march of 12,000 people in San Pedro Sula the police fire bullets, used tear gas and wounded 20 marchers with numerous people detained.
The removal of the Mayor of San Pedro Sula. He was replaced by the nephew of Roberto Michelleti, the current President of the de facto government.
Buses are being held by the police and army prohibiting their travel to Tegucigalpa. Known social leaders are being detained. There have been cases of the military shooting the tyres of the buses so that they cannot continue their journey.
Television and radio stations that condemn the coup have been closed. Some of the stations are also surrounded by the military. Radio Globo is the only radio station transmitting which allows people to express their views. They were shut for some time and there is constant interference in the signal. In this moment the website of telesur has been blocked, which was the case with Radio Globo yesterday.
On a national level, there is only one station that emits news regarding the marches against the illegal government. The other stations do not transit any news regarding the actions of support for Mel Zelaya and have stopped being news stations and are now propaganda employees for the illegal government.
There have been marches in favour and against this illegal government. In the case of the march in favour of the illegal government some workers are being forced by their employees to attend the march of face the loss of their jobs. As for the marches against the illegal government there is a strong military presence and the threat of violence. In various occasions the military have used tear gas and have beaten the marchers.
One song that can be heard in the marches against a non-elected government and the reinstatement of Mel Zelaya as President:
“We are not five, we are not a ten
Sold out press count us again”
You can show your solidarity with the Honduran people who do not want this illegal, repressive, government. There are several ways:
· - Discussing with your friends and family the current situation of Honduras
· - Make comments of support on newspaper or news websites e.g. BBC website
· - If you feel very strongly please write to you local MP
· - Visiting the following website and sign your name in support.
www.todosconhonduras.cult.cu/index.php?lang=2
Useful websites are difficult to find in English but you can use the google translator to obtain an idea of themes of discussion. Below are various websites that you can visit for more information:
www.elheraldo.hn Honduran national daily newspaper. In support of the illegal government.
www.telesur.com TV channel which is part of the Venezuela government. Have been covering events in the country since Sunday 28 June. For those of you who understand some Spanish the audio/video link is a good resource.
www.radioglobo.com The only radio station still on air that criticises the illegal government.
http://hondurasresistencia.blogspot.com/
A blog with experiences and pictures of events in Honduras.
In the five months that I have been here I have seen the beauty of my fellow countrymen and women and the need for the country to provide equal opportunities for all. Please show your support for the Honduran people.
Best Wishes
A warm greeting from Honduras where we are living some difficult and uncertain times. Maybe some of you are aware of recent events and some of the reasons that have provoked them.
Without doubt the country is polarized and almost all of the politicians are guilty of corruption and abuse of power. However, the manner in which President Mel Zelaya was forcefully removed from his home and Presidency, and the subsequent abuse of power by the de facto government is not justifiable under any circumstances.
The reasons, protagonists and objectives of the recent days are complex. In Honduras 65% of the population lives in poverty, 47% live in extreme poverty. The poorest 20% of the country only earn 3% of the total income. However there is a wealth of natural resources including the Caribbean Sea, Pacific Ocean, metals and minerals, fertile, tropical land and hard working people.
However, the root of the problem is the lack of distribution of political and economic power, which is concentrated in the hands of a few families, business owners and congressmen. Some of the recent initiatives that made Zelaya popular with the poor was the doubling of the minimum wage to cover the cost of the bread basket, school snacks for children, break-up and of the petrol monopoly and subsequent reduced prices, financial benefits to the poorest people and free primary and secondary school matriculation. It is important to mention that Zelaya also had not completed many important tasks such as confirming the 2009 Budget, being able to the re-construct 16 following tropical storm and June´s earthquakes, and ineffectively and possibly corruptly using the budget for the Eradication of Poverty Program.
Mel Zelaya had proposed reforms which could have lead to greater participation and representation of the people in congress as well as other possible changes to the constitution which would include the use of natural resources for the benefit of the country and nationalisation of industries. The powerful oligarchy responded by using congress to ensure the illegality of the process, eventually culminating with a military coup which was a result of the Zelaya at the last minute making Sunday 28 June ballot legally binding. Zelaya was ousted with the use of the armed forces and simultaneously a card appeared signed by him resigning from his post (the authenticity of this card has yet to be proved). The military coup is the first time this has happened in Honduras since 1982.
I would like to explain how we have been living here for the past few days. Two nights ago (Wednesday 1 July) the de facto government approved a decree which calls for a curfew between 9pm and 6am in the capital. In other parts of the country this is between 6pm and 6am. During these hours the following rights have been suspended:
Right to free circulation, freedom to associate as groups or to manifest, sanctity of residence, right to private property, freedom of the press, and sharing of ideas and opinions, personal liberty which includes the rights to be detained in police quarters for more than 24 hours without charges, among others
This decree is a violation of human rights as the only person who is able to pass this decree is the President who has not been recognised by the United Nations, Organisation of American States, ALBA among others.
Below is a summary of some the actions undertaken by de facto government:
Wednesday 1 July
80 people detained. Social leaders are being threatened, detained and forced to hide. Young men from rural zones in Olancho and Colon are being forced to support the army and are being taken to the capital to support the illegal government.
Thursday 2 July
175 people detained. 300 people from the village of Bonito Oriental, Colon were stopped by the police and armed forces whilst beginning their journey to support the arrival of Manuel Zelaya. They were beaten heavily by the police.
During a march of 12,000 people in San Pedro Sula the police fire bullets, used tear gas and wounded 20 marchers with numerous people detained.
The removal of the Mayor of San Pedro Sula. He was replaced by the nephew of Roberto Michelleti, the current President of the de facto government.
Buses are being held by the police and army prohibiting their travel to Tegucigalpa. Known social leaders are being detained. There have been cases of the military shooting the tyres of the buses so that they cannot continue their journey.
Television and radio stations that condemn the coup have been closed. Some of the stations are also surrounded by the military. Radio Globo is the only radio station transmitting which allows people to express their views. They were shut for some time and there is constant interference in the signal. In this moment the website of telesur has been blocked, which was the case with Radio Globo yesterday.
On a national level, there is only one station that emits news regarding the marches against the illegal government. The other stations do not transit any news regarding the actions of support for Mel Zelaya and have stopped being news stations and are now propaganda employees for the illegal government.
There have been marches in favour and against this illegal government. In the case of the march in favour of the illegal government some workers are being forced by their employees to attend the march of face the loss of their jobs. As for the marches against the illegal government there is a strong military presence and the threat of violence. In various occasions the military have used tear gas and have beaten the marchers.
One song that can be heard in the marches against a non-elected government and the reinstatement of Mel Zelaya as President:
“We are not five, we are not a ten
Sold out press count us again”
You can show your solidarity with the Honduran people who do not want this illegal, repressive, government. There are several ways:
· - Discussing with your friends and family the current situation of Honduras
· - Make comments of support on newspaper or news websites e.g. BBC website
· - If you feel very strongly please write to you local MP
· - Visiting the following website and sign your name in support.
www.todosconhonduras.cult.cu/index.php?lang=2
Useful websites are difficult to find in English but you can use the google translator to obtain an idea of themes of discussion. Below are various websites that you can visit for more information:
www.elheraldo.hn Honduran national daily newspaper. In support of the illegal government.
www.telesur.com TV channel which is part of the Venezuela government. Have been covering events in the country since Sunday 28 June. For those of you who understand some Spanish the audio/video link is a good resource.
www.radioglobo.com The only radio station still on air that criticises the illegal government.
http://hondurasresistencia.blogspot.com/
A blog with experiences and pictures of events in Honduras.
In the five months that I have been here I have seen the beauty of my fellow countrymen and women and the need for the country to provide equal opportunities for all. Please show your support for the Honduran people.
Best Wishes
Día 5 despues del Golpe - escrito 2 Julio
Queridos Amigos y Amigas,
Os mando un saludo grande de Honduras donde estamos viviendo momentos muy difíciles de mucha incertidumbre. Quizás algunos de vosotros se han enterado de lo que ha pasado y algunas de razones que provocó todo.
Sin duda el país se ha polarizado y todos los políticos son culpables de abuso de poder y corrupción. Sin embargo la manera de destituir al Presidente Mel Zelaya y el posterior abuso del poder por el gobierno de facto no es justificable en ninguna circunstancia.
Yo quería explicar lo que estamos viviendo estos días en el país. Anoche el congreso del gobierno de facto aprobó un estado de sitio entre 9pm y 6am en la capital. En otras partes del país el horario es entre 6pm y 6am. Esto significa que se ha suspendido los siguientes garantías:
Derecho a la libertad de circulación, libertad de asociación y manifestación, inviolabilidad del domicilio, derecho a la propiedad privada, libertad de prensa y difusión de ideas y opiniones, libertad personal incluso el derecho de no ser detenido administrativamente en sede policial por mas de 24 horas y la detención judicial para inquirir de 6 días las cuales pasarían a detenciones indefinidas, entre otras.
A causa de este decreto anoche hubo 80 detenidos, según fuentes de la prensa. Esta es una violación de derechos humanos porque la única persona que puede aprobar este decreto es el Presidente que no ha sido reconocido por la Naciones Unidades, Organismo de Estados Americanos, Comunidad Europea, el Alba entre otros. Líderes de movimientos sociales están siendo amenazados, detenidos y se están escondiendo. Todas estas acciones muestran claramente las intenciones del gobierno de facto.
También los militares están reclutando jóvenes de las zonas rurales de Olancho y Colon. A causa de este hay muchos jóvenes escondiéndose en las montañas.
A la vez hay cierre de cadenas televisoras y radio que han condenado el golpe militar. También hay edificios de emisoras locales rodeados por militares. Radio Globo es la única emisora que queda transmitiendo información imparcial y hay muchas interferencias en el audio. En estos momentos han bloqueado el acceso internet a la página de Radio Globo.
En los medios de comunicación nacional solo hay una emisora local que emita noticias de las marchas en contra del gobierno ilegal. Lo demás cadenas no transmiten ninguna información de las acciones a favor del regreso de Mel Zelaya y han terminado de ser noticieros y ya son propagandistas del gobierno ilegal.
Como va una canción que se escucha en la marcha a favor del regreso de Mel Zelaya
“Ni somos cinco, ni somos cien
Prensa vendida cuéntanos bien”
Ha habido marchas a favor y en contra del gobierno ilegal. En ambos casos manifestaciones grandes pero sin duda los grupos en contra del gobierno ilegal son más numerosos. Sin embargo, menos en telesur no ha habido cobertura de la prensa de estas marchas. Además los manifestantes tienen que andar muy pendiente de las fuerzas armadas que un varios manifestaciones han tirado bombas lagrimas y han golpeado a la gente.
Por favor lean el documento y demuestran su solidaridad con el pueblo Hondureño que no quiere este gobierno brutal y ilegal en poder. Os pido que visitéis la página de web www.todosconhonduras.cult.cu/ siguiente para firmar su apoyo al pueblo Hondureño.
Si algunos de vosotros y vosotras quiere informarse un poco más se puede acceder a los siguientes paginas de web.
www.elheraldo.hn Prensa nacional, totalmente en apoyo del gobierno de facto. No muestra noticias que no sean relacionados con el gobierno de facto.
www.telesur.com Emisora de Venezuela. Esta en el país cubriendo los eventos y su cobertura es mucha más amplia. El audio en directo es un buen recurso.
www.radioglobo.com Quizás hay suerte y se puede escuchar el radio por su página de web
http://hondurasresistencia.blogspot.com/
Un blog con las opiniones y experiencias de gente en Honduras
Un saludo grande
Os mando un saludo grande de Honduras donde estamos viviendo momentos muy difíciles de mucha incertidumbre. Quizás algunos de vosotros se han enterado de lo que ha pasado y algunas de razones que provocó todo.
Sin duda el país se ha polarizado y todos los políticos son culpables de abuso de poder y corrupción. Sin embargo la manera de destituir al Presidente Mel Zelaya y el posterior abuso del poder por el gobierno de facto no es justificable en ninguna circunstancia.
Yo quería explicar lo que estamos viviendo estos días en el país. Anoche el congreso del gobierno de facto aprobó un estado de sitio entre 9pm y 6am en la capital. En otras partes del país el horario es entre 6pm y 6am. Esto significa que se ha suspendido los siguientes garantías:
Derecho a la libertad de circulación, libertad de asociación y manifestación, inviolabilidad del domicilio, derecho a la propiedad privada, libertad de prensa y difusión de ideas y opiniones, libertad personal incluso el derecho de no ser detenido administrativamente en sede policial por mas de 24 horas y la detención judicial para inquirir de 6 días las cuales pasarían a detenciones indefinidas, entre otras.
A causa de este decreto anoche hubo 80 detenidos, según fuentes de la prensa. Esta es una violación de derechos humanos porque la única persona que puede aprobar este decreto es el Presidente que no ha sido reconocido por la Naciones Unidades, Organismo de Estados Americanos, Comunidad Europea, el Alba entre otros. Líderes de movimientos sociales están siendo amenazados, detenidos y se están escondiendo. Todas estas acciones muestran claramente las intenciones del gobierno de facto.
También los militares están reclutando jóvenes de las zonas rurales de Olancho y Colon. A causa de este hay muchos jóvenes escondiéndose en las montañas.
A la vez hay cierre de cadenas televisoras y radio que han condenado el golpe militar. También hay edificios de emisoras locales rodeados por militares. Radio Globo es la única emisora que queda transmitiendo información imparcial y hay muchas interferencias en el audio. En estos momentos han bloqueado el acceso internet a la página de Radio Globo.
En los medios de comunicación nacional solo hay una emisora local que emita noticias de las marchas en contra del gobierno ilegal. Lo demás cadenas no transmiten ninguna información de las acciones a favor del regreso de Mel Zelaya y han terminado de ser noticieros y ya son propagandistas del gobierno ilegal.
Como va una canción que se escucha en la marcha a favor del regreso de Mel Zelaya
“Ni somos cinco, ni somos cien
Prensa vendida cuéntanos bien”
Ha habido marchas a favor y en contra del gobierno ilegal. En ambos casos manifestaciones grandes pero sin duda los grupos en contra del gobierno ilegal son más numerosos. Sin embargo, menos en telesur no ha habido cobertura de la prensa de estas marchas. Además los manifestantes tienen que andar muy pendiente de las fuerzas armadas que un varios manifestaciones han tirado bombas lagrimas y han golpeado a la gente.
Por favor lean el documento y demuestran su solidaridad con el pueblo Hondureño que no quiere este gobierno brutal y ilegal en poder. Os pido que visitéis la página de web www.todosconhonduras.cult.cu/ siguiente para firmar su apoyo al pueblo Hondureño.
Si algunos de vosotros y vosotras quiere informarse un poco más se puede acceder a los siguientes paginas de web.
www.elheraldo.hn Prensa nacional, totalmente en apoyo del gobierno de facto. No muestra noticias que no sean relacionados con el gobierno de facto.
www.telesur.com Emisora de Venezuela. Esta en el país cubriendo los eventos y su cobertura es mucha más amplia. El audio en directo es un buen recurso.
www.radioglobo.com Quizás hay suerte y se puede escuchar el radio por su página de web
http://hondurasresistencia.blogspot.com/
Un blog con las opiniones y experiencias de gente en Honduras
Un saludo grande
Monday, April 13, 2009
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Honduras - My First Month
I´m a little unsure of how honest I wanted to be in the blog but I am going to share with you all that I have experienced here in Honduras. These unpredictable, often painful but always healing eight weeks that have allowed me to fit some missing jigsaw pieces into the puzzle of my life. This is a journey which I have made by myself, although I know I have shared it all with you; my family and friends.
I arrived in Tegucigalpa as if it were just another city on my travels. Tired and not ready for the challenge of a big urban sprawl, I stepped of the bus from Nicaragua to the usual hounding by the taxi drivers. My first feelings certainly weren´t “Wow! I´m back, this is where I´m from”. In fact I have spent most of my time travelling avoiding large cities so it comes as a surprise writing this from the colonia (neighbourhood) where I live that I will be staying longer. My taxi driver to the centre was the first to know about my history. That I was born in Tegucigalpa to a Welsh mother, Honduran father, had lived there for two years before heading to Britain where I spent the subsequent 25 years. I had now returned for the first time to find my dad and my Honduran roots. It is a story that I have now told countless times and although I easily tire of my own voice I know that I am opening my soul, something I have rarely been unable to do during the years since my mum´s death.
After finding a suitable hotel, not the cheapest by travelling standards but quiet, clean and with a grumpy receptionist I considered my plans. I had a few contacts in the city kindly given to me by a friend of my mum´s who still lives in Honduras. I had read that the country as a whole was a dangerous place and that of course I should take care. Travelling by myself I was very cautious and did not leave the hotel during the evening for the whole time of my stay. As a result I did meet people in the hotel and eventually made friends with the receptionist. However, the feeling of walking around the city with one eye on the next potential attacker and nights spend in the hotel were very restrictive. I soon learned that although I have Honduran genes, my appearance is that of a European, not even to be mistaken for the lighter skinned cheles of Honduras.
Tegucigalpa is similar to many large cities in Latin America: dense, sprawling, noisy, dirty and polluted. There is no escaping the contrasts in quality of life between the very rich and very poor who own nothing other than what they are wearing. To see someone in a skip, opening rubbish bags and eating left over food was, and continues to impact me. There is a non-existent social security system in the country and hence if someone has no money, no job and no family then they have to fight to live. Unsurprisingly people here do whatever it takes to obtain the next meal or a little money. There is a Honduran saying which goes “aqui no se vive, se sobrevive” (here one doesn´t live, but survives). Children who should be playing in the park instead under the blazing sun sell mangoes, tajadas and chewing gum to cars stopped at traffic lights. People fill in the holes in the road and ask for contributions. Plastic bottles and tins are ripped from rubbish bags in the skip to sell for recycling. These are some people working to survive. Some end up resorting to stealing, robbing or forms of organised crime.
Over one million people live in Tegucigalpa spread over the hilly valley floor and rising up to the steep valley. Here wooden houses with tin roofs are placed precariously on the valley sides. The owners pray not to lose their house to the heavy rain and mudslides that are common between May and November. The city is divided into two by the Rio Choluteca. Tegucigalpa on one side and the often forgotten, marginalised Comayaguela on the other. For all the difficulties that the people face Tegucigalpa has an enchantment to it, or better said is that the people of Tegucigalpa are the enchantment.
On my second day in Tegus I planned to meet Noelia, a friend of my mum´s from when they both lived and worked together in the late 70´s and 80´s. Sent to pick me up was Carlos, the driver of the charity who would become a close friend, who´s friendship and support has been invaluable. Noelia was kind enough to spend time with me away from her very busy role in the charity. Within the first ten seconds of her talking about how loved and respected my mum was I began to cry. Ten years had past since my mum´s death and I knew from the pain that I was feeling I had still a lot of healing to go through. Noelia told me what she remembered about my mum´s time in Honduras, which I will talk about later, if I ever get a clear perspective of. However, I know now that my mum was a respected, solitary, committed and passionate person who fought to improve the lives of the poor Honduran agricultural workers. This knowledge fills me with pride and motivation to follow in her footsteps.
I returned the next day to visit Noelia who had also arranged for me to meet Ricardo; another friend of my mum´s. Ricardo talked a little about my dad and mentioned that he may have tried to look for me many years ago. He also told me that my uncle on my dad´s side was called Eleno and lived somewhere on the North Coast. I had always considered that I would have family on my dad´s side but this was the first time I had a name. Everything began to feel real. That afternoon Carlos and I took the first of many visits to the Civil Registry office where I would try to find information about my family. The Civil Registry is a large, government building where people go if they have lost their identity card or need a copy of their birth certificate. Every child starting the new school year needs to present an official birth certificate to the teacher. I felt sorry for the parents who had to take time off work once a year to obtain a copy for their children. Upon arriving we were greeted by huge queues and I new that if I was by myself I would have no chance of entering. We wondered around investigating where we needed to go. At one point we were approached by one of the many informal helpers who for a fee will help in obtaining whichever papers are required. We gave my details to the helper and waited to see if he would bring any news. After twenty minutes and no news we left our helper to shouts of “come on, just twenty lempira and I´ll get things going”. Since that day every time that I pass the cue he shouts out “El Español” or more inventively “canta me algo Camilio Sexto” (“sing me something Camilo Sexto” (A famous Spanish singer)).
Thanks to a contact that Carlos had we were able to skip the queues and visit an office on the fifth floor. Here they would help me obtain an official copy of my birth certificate which I would later use to obtain my identity card. We would also search the national database for my dad, uncle and grandmother. No luck finding any details and even the passport photos which would appear alongside each name were of no use since I have no recollection of my dad or any photos of him. I would return to the Civil Registry numerous times over the next few weeks. During that period the office would be closed for failures in the system, grey water leaks and worker strikes. By the end I had become friendly with the staff who would always ask how my search was going.
One of the many inspirational people that I met was a friend of my mum´s who founded Committee for the Detained and Disappeared in Honduras (COFADEH) www.cofadeh.org She told me how my mum arrived to work with OXFAM and how they became friends and ended up living in the same apartment blocks in Tegucigalpa. Even when we had moved to the UK my mum continued to keep in contact and would send my old clothes to her son who was four months younger than me. The most amazing story that Bertha told me was of when my parents were no longer living together and how my dad took me without my mum´s permission. After several days of looking my mum found were Miguel was living, jumped the security fence and took me back. It’s nice to know that both cared about me so much.
Not even a week had passed and I was learning so much but that first weekend would change the course of my stay. I met with another friend of my mum´s and we talked a little about my mum´s time here and the landworker movement in Honduras. He told me that his son Gilberto was living in a house in the city and I was welcome to stay with him. So the next day I was being picked up and taken to the house in a colonia called El Hato. To this day I am still living here and it looks like I will be here for the next year.
I couldn´t have had more luck with the house. All young people and part of a political organisation with a distinct leaning to the left (If you are interested you can visit their website www.losnecios.org ). I even had my own room. Over the following weeks I would get to better know René, Ian and Claudia as well as many of the people involved in the organisation.
During the next week I would continue to meet friends of my mum´s. All inspirational people who had survived difficult times during the late 70s and 80s, and were still working for a just Honduras. My most memorable visit was to The Honduran Institute of Rural Development where my mum worked. I was met by Guillermo and Andres. I had no idea what was awaiting me and once we had sat down Guillermo read me an article that he had published in the Institute´s Magazine. The article entitled “Nia….Nos Puedes Oir” (“¿Nia….Can you hear us?” ) talked about her impact with the organisation and her solidarity with the poor landworkers. Immediately I was in tears, again another occasion in which I realised that I still find it difficult to deal with her death. Then whilst still drying my eyes I was taken downstairs to meet all of the staff and I was presented with a plaque entitled “El Rincon de Nia Williams” (“The Nia Williams Corner”).Guillermo and I together stuck the plaque to the wall. The story goes that the plaque was actually ordered some months ago and it seems that I arrived in Honduras just as they were preparing to hang the plaque.
Again, Guillermo surprised me and took me to meet the doctor who was present at my birth. My mum hadn´t time to reach the hospital and I was born on the kitchen table.
So slowly I began to settle into the city. Our colonia is working class and relatively quite. However, like most areas of Tegus there are problems and there is always the need to walk carefully. It´s good to have the odd note in the socks, reply whilst walking when the kids on the corner ask for a little money and not to wander the streets late at night. All common sense really. However, more seriously my local internet café was robbed at gunpoint and a friend´s dad was assassinated a month ago. So far I´ve been fine and not experienced any problems myself. The colonia does have some charm and the little plaza in the centre always has people selling fresh fruit such as pineapple, watermelon, avocados and plantains out of their vans. Two old men will sit day long peeling orange skins whilst every lunchtime and dinner time women will sit on the street corner selling maize tortilla. There is also a great selection of Honduran fast foods. For example, baleadas: flower tortillas filled with fried red beans, cream and a chilli sauce, papusas: similar but originally from El Salvador, tamales: boiled mass of maize wrapped in banana leaves. Our neighbours are really friendly and I will often sit outside with them chatting in the evening.
Thanks to Carlos I began to meet many people and eventually got round to playing football with his friends. The first match I lasted only ten minutes and had to be substituted as the standard was high, my skill low and my fitness nonexistent. As the weeks past I wandered back into goal (my position during my youth) and can now proudly say that I am a valuable member of the team.
On an aside football is the only sport in Honduras and when the national team plays the country comes to a standstill. So far no one is buying there ticket for the 2010 Finals in South Africa but there is a good chance this year to qualify. It would be only the second time in their history and a welcome distraction to the nation from the daily grind.
That same week I accompanied Gilberto on a trip to Trujillo on the Caribbean Coast. When we arrived at the meeting point at 6.30am I had no idea where we were going and was surprised to be told we would be travelling in an old US school bus across the country. The long journey with the Bloque Popular, a mixture of trade unionists, students and political activists took us northwards rising out of the pine tree valleys of Tegus and toward Lago Yojoa, the largest freshwater lake in the country. From there we arrived at the North Coast feeling the humidity and temperature rising along with the appearance of African palm and banana plantations.
I swore that night was going to be the last time I sleep with 30 men. What I actually mean is that sleeping in a dorm with 30 other men didn´t allow for a good nights sleep. Amongst the snoring and farting I was awoken at 3.45am. Someone was listening to the official Cuban radio station news. Then at 5am the person sleeping next to me woke up spitting profusely on the floor about 50cm from my bed. Not a big deal and all was soon forgotten eating a typical Honduran breakfast of refried beans, maize tortillas, cream and a black coffee.
We had travelled to Trujillo to support three campesinos that were due to be trialed for the murder of a ten people. The prosecution was demanding a sentence of 500 years, unknown in the history of the Honduran justice system. The campesinos from Valley de Aguan, a valley which the centre of land struggles between the poor campesinos and the powerful terratenientes (landowners). The campesinos, in their attempt to recover their land have been intimidated, threatened and killed. All that they wish is some land to plant maize and frijoles for food and income for their family. That morning we marched on the town of Trujillo with banners, chants and music. We visited the Council offices, the Mayor´s office and the local courts to present a document asking for a fair trial. Unsurprisingly, the Mayor´s office would not open to receive the document and in the local courts everybody had gone to lunch. It was a fantastic experience and had some poignant moments thinking that over 25 years ago my mum and dad were doing exactly the same: supporting the campesinos in their struggle. A day later, back in Tegus we heard the news that another campesino had been shot and one was seriously injured. A real eye opener to how difficult life is for the campesinos in that area of the country.
I spent the next week a little frustrated. By now I was no longer travelling and neither was I living in Tegus. I have always been patient in the search for my dad and know that one day soon I will find him. However, not being able to do anything to advance the search was difficult and I felt a little lost. I re-learned that the best remedy is just to get on with life. I dragged myself out of the house and made good friends with the baleada family and Angel of the internet café. It felt great to develop friendships and feel some personal contact.
Towards the end of the week I was invited a friend at the charity TROCAIRE to visit HIV projects in Choluteca, SE of Honduras. This area of the country which borders Nicaragua has a high rate of HIV partly due to the migration and movement of truck drivers and prostitutes. In Honduras there exists an extreme amount of discrimination and misunderstanding regarding HIV and AIDS. Our visit included meeting with a support group for people infected with HIV. Of the group of twenty of one person had been able to tell there family of their condition, this was a young girl with a child of two years old. We also visited the home of a woman who is part of the group. She lived in an isolated house some distance from the nearest village which had no electricity or running water. She told us how she was unable to obtain work as people would openly discriminate against her. Her only support came from the group and the hammocks she made and sold. The income from this had to go to supporting her two children, buying the antiviral and the adequate food for the antiviral to work. We also visited a primary school and a high school where a local charity had been working not only to educate about HIV but also discrimination and human rights.
As I mentioned before a friend´s dad was assassinated 200m from where I live. At 7am when he was preparing to go to work he was shot three times in the head. It is believed this was done professionally and as a response to his work which investigated fraud and corruption. There have been over 2000 killings this year in Honduras related to gangs, robberies and hired professionals. The government´s response has been to increase the number of police on the streets as well as to provide military support. This does have an immediate effect but undoubtedly the root of the problem is far greater. Marginalisation of the poor, inadequate education, poor police pay and lack of police education amongst many reasons. Where to start? Corruption is ingrained at all levels of society, the penal system is ineffective and people are scared to report crimes. Honduras faces a huge task and part of the solution must be to better divide the wealth that the country has and stop the exploitation of the workers. This year the minimum wage was doubled to 5500 Lempira, about 250US dollars, still a very small quantity.
So that has been my first month here in Honduras. I have tried to give an accurate description of the country and my experiences here. This is the reality as to how over 50% of the population lives.
I´m glad to say that I´m happy, taking care of myself and leading a healthy life. I hope you are all well and enjoying the arrival of Spring. Lots of love. You are in my thoughts
Alexis
I arrived in Tegucigalpa as if it were just another city on my travels. Tired and not ready for the challenge of a big urban sprawl, I stepped of the bus from Nicaragua to the usual hounding by the taxi drivers. My first feelings certainly weren´t “Wow! I´m back, this is where I´m from”. In fact I have spent most of my time travelling avoiding large cities so it comes as a surprise writing this from the colonia (neighbourhood) where I live that I will be staying longer. My taxi driver to the centre was the first to know about my history. That I was born in Tegucigalpa to a Welsh mother, Honduran father, had lived there for two years before heading to Britain where I spent the subsequent 25 years. I had now returned for the first time to find my dad and my Honduran roots. It is a story that I have now told countless times and although I easily tire of my own voice I know that I am opening my soul, something I have rarely been unable to do during the years since my mum´s death.
After finding a suitable hotel, not the cheapest by travelling standards but quiet, clean and with a grumpy receptionist I considered my plans. I had a few contacts in the city kindly given to me by a friend of my mum´s who still lives in Honduras. I had read that the country as a whole was a dangerous place and that of course I should take care. Travelling by myself I was very cautious and did not leave the hotel during the evening for the whole time of my stay. As a result I did meet people in the hotel and eventually made friends with the receptionist. However, the feeling of walking around the city with one eye on the next potential attacker and nights spend in the hotel were very restrictive. I soon learned that although I have Honduran genes, my appearance is that of a European, not even to be mistaken for the lighter skinned cheles of Honduras.
Tegucigalpa is similar to many large cities in Latin America: dense, sprawling, noisy, dirty and polluted. There is no escaping the contrasts in quality of life between the very rich and very poor who own nothing other than what they are wearing. To see someone in a skip, opening rubbish bags and eating left over food was, and continues to impact me. There is a non-existent social security system in the country and hence if someone has no money, no job and no family then they have to fight to live. Unsurprisingly people here do whatever it takes to obtain the next meal or a little money. There is a Honduran saying which goes “aqui no se vive, se sobrevive” (here one doesn´t live, but survives). Children who should be playing in the park instead under the blazing sun sell mangoes, tajadas and chewing gum to cars stopped at traffic lights. People fill in the holes in the road and ask for contributions. Plastic bottles and tins are ripped from rubbish bags in the skip to sell for recycling. These are some people working to survive. Some end up resorting to stealing, robbing or forms of organised crime.
Over one million people live in Tegucigalpa spread over the hilly valley floor and rising up to the steep valley. Here wooden houses with tin roofs are placed precariously on the valley sides. The owners pray not to lose their house to the heavy rain and mudslides that are common between May and November. The city is divided into two by the Rio Choluteca. Tegucigalpa on one side and the often forgotten, marginalised Comayaguela on the other. For all the difficulties that the people face Tegucigalpa has an enchantment to it, or better said is that the people of Tegucigalpa are the enchantment.
On my second day in Tegus I planned to meet Noelia, a friend of my mum´s from when they both lived and worked together in the late 70´s and 80´s. Sent to pick me up was Carlos, the driver of the charity who would become a close friend, who´s friendship and support has been invaluable. Noelia was kind enough to spend time with me away from her very busy role in the charity. Within the first ten seconds of her talking about how loved and respected my mum was I began to cry. Ten years had past since my mum´s death and I knew from the pain that I was feeling I had still a lot of healing to go through. Noelia told me what she remembered about my mum´s time in Honduras, which I will talk about later, if I ever get a clear perspective of. However, I know now that my mum was a respected, solitary, committed and passionate person who fought to improve the lives of the poor Honduran agricultural workers. This knowledge fills me with pride and motivation to follow in her footsteps.
I returned the next day to visit Noelia who had also arranged for me to meet Ricardo; another friend of my mum´s. Ricardo talked a little about my dad and mentioned that he may have tried to look for me many years ago. He also told me that my uncle on my dad´s side was called Eleno and lived somewhere on the North Coast. I had always considered that I would have family on my dad´s side but this was the first time I had a name. Everything began to feel real. That afternoon Carlos and I took the first of many visits to the Civil Registry office where I would try to find information about my family. The Civil Registry is a large, government building where people go if they have lost their identity card or need a copy of their birth certificate. Every child starting the new school year needs to present an official birth certificate to the teacher. I felt sorry for the parents who had to take time off work once a year to obtain a copy for their children. Upon arriving we were greeted by huge queues and I new that if I was by myself I would have no chance of entering. We wondered around investigating where we needed to go. At one point we were approached by one of the many informal helpers who for a fee will help in obtaining whichever papers are required. We gave my details to the helper and waited to see if he would bring any news. After twenty minutes and no news we left our helper to shouts of “come on, just twenty lempira and I´ll get things going”. Since that day every time that I pass the cue he shouts out “El Español” or more inventively “canta me algo Camilio Sexto” (“sing me something Camilo Sexto” (A famous Spanish singer)).
Thanks to a contact that Carlos had we were able to skip the queues and visit an office on the fifth floor. Here they would help me obtain an official copy of my birth certificate which I would later use to obtain my identity card. We would also search the national database for my dad, uncle and grandmother. No luck finding any details and even the passport photos which would appear alongside each name were of no use since I have no recollection of my dad or any photos of him. I would return to the Civil Registry numerous times over the next few weeks. During that period the office would be closed for failures in the system, grey water leaks and worker strikes. By the end I had become friendly with the staff who would always ask how my search was going.
One of the many inspirational people that I met was a friend of my mum´s who founded Committee for the Detained and Disappeared in Honduras (COFADEH) www.cofadeh.org She told me how my mum arrived to work with OXFAM and how they became friends and ended up living in the same apartment blocks in Tegucigalpa. Even when we had moved to the UK my mum continued to keep in contact and would send my old clothes to her son who was four months younger than me. The most amazing story that Bertha told me was of when my parents were no longer living together and how my dad took me without my mum´s permission. After several days of looking my mum found were Miguel was living, jumped the security fence and took me back. It’s nice to know that both cared about me so much.
Not even a week had passed and I was learning so much but that first weekend would change the course of my stay. I met with another friend of my mum´s and we talked a little about my mum´s time here and the landworker movement in Honduras. He told me that his son Gilberto was living in a house in the city and I was welcome to stay with him. So the next day I was being picked up and taken to the house in a colonia called El Hato. To this day I am still living here and it looks like I will be here for the next year.
I couldn´t have had more luck with the house. All young people and part of a political organisation with a distinct leaning to the left (If you are interested you can visit their website www.losnecios.org ). I even had my own room. Over the following weeks I would get to better know René, Ian and Claudia as well as many of the people involved in the organisation.
During the next week I would continue to meet friends of my mum´s. All inspirational people who had survived difficult times during the late 70s and 80s, and were still working for a just Honduras. My most memorable visit was to The Honduran Institute of Rural Development where my mum worked. I was met by Guillermo and Andres. I had no idea what was awaiting me and once we had sat down Guillermo read me an article that he had published in the Institute´s Magazine. The article entitled “Nia….Nos Puedes Oir” (“¿Nia….Can you hear us?” ) talked about her impact with the organisation and her solidarity with the poor landworkers. Immediately I was in tears, again another occasion in which I realised that I still find it difficult to deal with her death. Then whilst still drying my eyes I was taken downstairs to meet all of the staff and I was presented with a plaque entitled “El Rincon de Nia Williams” (“The Nia Williams Corner”).Guillermo and I together stuck the plaque to the wall. The story goes that the plaque was actually ordered some months ago and it seems that I arrived in Honduras just as they were preparing to hang the plaque.
Again, Guillermo surprised me and took me to meet the doctor who was present at my birth. My mum hadn´t time to reach the hospital and I was born on the kitchen table.
So slowly I began to settle into the city. Our colonia is working class and relatively quite. However, like most areas of Tegus there are problems and there is always the need to walk carefully. It´s good to have the odd note in the socks, reply whilst walking when the kids on the corner ask for a little money and not to wander the streets late at night. All common sense really. However, more seriously my local internet café was robbed at gunpoint and a friend´s dad was assassinated a month ago. So far I´ve been fine and not experienced any problems myself. The colonia does have some charm and the little plaza in the centre always has people selling fresh fruit such as pineapple, watermelon, avocados and plantains out of their vans. Two old men will sit day long peeling orange skins whilst every lunchtime and dinner time women will sit on the street corner selling maize tortilla. There is also a great selection of Honduran fast foods. For example, baleadas: flower tortillas filled with fried red beans, cream and a chilli sauce, papusas: similar but originally from El Salvador, tamales: boiled mass of maize wrapped in banana leaves. Our neighbours are really friendly and I will often sit outside with them chatting in the evening.
Thanks to Carlos I began to meet many people and eventually got round to playing football with his friends. The first match I lasted only ten minutes and had to be substituted as the standard was high, my skill low and my fitness nonexistent. As the weeks past I wandered back into goal (my position during my youth) and can now proudly say that I am a valuable member of the team.
On an aside football is the only sport in Honduras and when the national team plays the country comes to a standstill. So far no one is buying there ticket for the 2010 Finals in South Africa but there is a good chance this year to qualify. It would be only the second time in their history and a welcome distraction to the nation from the daily grind.
That same week I accompanied Gilberto on a trip to Trujillo on the Caribbean Coast. When we arrived at the meeting point at 6.30am I had no idea where we were going and was surprised to be told we would be travelling in an old US school bus across the country. The long journey with the Bloque Popular, a mixture of trade unionists, students and political activists took us northwards rising out of the pine tree valleys of Tegus and toward Lago Yojoa, the largest freshwater lake in the country. From there we arrived at the North Coast feeling the humidity and temperature rising along with the appearance of African palm and banana plantations.
I swore that night was going to be the last time I sleep with 30 men. What I actually mean is that sleeping in a dorm with 30 other men didn´t allow for a good nights sleep. Amongst the snoring and farting I was awoken at 3.45am. Someone was listening to the official Cuban radio station news. Then at 5am the person sleeping next to me woke up spitting profusely on the floor about 50cm from my bed. Not a big deal and all was soon forgotten eating a typical Honduran breakfast of refried beans, maize tortillas, cream and a black coffee.
We had travelled to Trujillo to support three campesinos that were due to be trialed for the murder of a ten people. The prosecution was demanding a sentence of 500 years, unknown in the history of the Honduran justice system. The campesinos from Valley de Aguan, a valley which the centre of land struggles between the poor campesinos and the powerful terratenientes (landowners). The campesinos, in their attempt to recover their land have been intimidated, threatened and killed. All that they wish is some land to plant maize and frijoles for food and income for their family. That morning we marched on the town of Trujillo with banners, chants and music. We visited the Council offices, the Mayor´s office and the local courts to present a document asking for a fair trial. Unsurprisingly, the Mayor´s office would not open to receive the document and in the local courts everybody had gone to lunch. It was a fantastic experience and had some poignant moments thinking that over 25 years ago my mum and dad were doing exactly the same: supporting the campesinos in their struggle. A day later, back in Tegus we heard the news that another campesino had been shot and one was seriously injured. A real eye opener to how difficult life is for the campesinos in that area of the country.
I spent the next week a little frustrated. By now I was no longer travelling and neither was I living in Tegus. I have always been patient in the search for my dad and know that one day soon I will find him. However, not being able to do anything to advance the search was difficult and I felt a little lost. I re-learned that the best remedy is just to get on with life. I dragged myself out of the house and made good friends with the baleada family and Angel of the internet café. It felt great to develop friendships and feel some personal contact.
Towards the end of the week I was invited a friend at the charity TROCAIRE to visit HIV projects in Choluteca, SE of Honduras. This area of the country which borders Nicaragua has a high rate of HIV partly due to the migration and movement of truck drivers and prostitutes. In Honduras there exists an extreme amount of discrimination and misunderstanding regarding HIV and AIDS. Our visit included meeting with a support group for people infected with HIV. Of the group of twenty of one person had been able to tell there family of their condition, this was a young girl with a child of two years old. We also visited the home of a woman who is part of the group. She lived in an isolated house some distance from the nearest village which had no electricity or running water. She told us how she was unable to obtain work as people would openly discriminate against her. Her only support came from the group and the hammocks she made and sold. The income from this had to go to supporting her two children, buying the antiviral and the adequate food for the antiviral to work. We also visited a primary school and a high school where a local charity had been working not only to educate about HIV but also discrimination and human rights.
As I mentioned before a friend´s dad was assassinated 200m from where I live. At 7am when he was preparing to go to work he was shot three times in the head. It is believed this was done professionally and as a response to his work which investigated fraud and corruption. There have been over 2000 killings this year in Honduras related to gangs, robberies and hired professionals. The government´s response has been to increase the number of police on the streets as well as to provide military support. This does have an immediate effect but undoubtedly the root of the problem is far greater. Marginalisation of the poor, inadequate education, poor police pay and lack of police education amongst many reasons. Where to start? Corruption is ingrained at all levels of society, the penal system is ineffective and people are scared to report crimes. Honduras faces a huge task and part of the solution must be to better divide the wealth that the country has and stop the exploitation of the workers. This year the minimum wage was doubled to 5500 Lempira, about 250US dollars, still a very small quantity.
So that has been my first month here in Honduras. I have tried to give an accurate description of the country and my experiences here. This is the reality as to how over 50% of the population lives.
I´m glad to say that I´m happy, taking care of myself and leading a healthy life. I hope you are all well and enjoying the arrival of Spring. Lots of love. You are in my thoughts
Alexis
Sunday, February 22, 2009
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